Qualicum beach, bc canada
Your bicycle is very important for racing and for having fun riding and keeping your bike in good condition is just as important. Here are some tips on how to maintain,
setup and even purchase a bike. If you have any questions that you would
like answered send an e-mail and an answer will be posted.
This is
a reminder to check your bike over to make sure that it's safe to ride and
race! Here are the things you or your parents can check over before every race.
1. Tires.
Make sure there is enough air pressure in the tires. 50 to 70 psi
for 1.5 inch or larger tires and 70 to 100 psi for the 1 3/8 and 1 1/8 tires.
The air pressure should be checked at least every other week or more.
2. Nuts and
Bolts. Make sure that all the nuts and bolts are snug and
tight, especially those that hold the wheels on. Also check the cranks
and handle bars to make sure they have no "play" in them and that the
bolts are tight. While you are checking the nuts and bolts, spray a
little Jig-A-Loo lubricant on the threads to keep them from rusting on.
Jig-A-Loo can be purchased at Canadian Tire.
3. The
Chain. This is the part that make the bike go! It should
be rust free and clean and it shouldn't be too loose. Chain oil that is
typically used on mountain bikes isn't the best product to use on BMX bike
chains. Chain oil can cause dirt to collect in the chain and is very
messy. Like with the nuts and bolts, spray Jig-A-Loo lubricant on the
chain and let it soak in. Dirt won't collect on the chain with this
product and it isn't messy. Try to put this product on every couple of
weeks. If you are not comfortable adjusting the chain if it's loose then
either take it to your local bike shop or ask for help at the track.
4. The
Brakes. Make sure that the breaks stop the bike when you are
riding it. This is easy to do. Just go for a ride and put on the
brakes. Next make sure they the breaks are not rubbing on one side of the
wheel when you are not using the breaks. Pick up the bike and spin the
rear wheel. The breaks should not rub and stop the tire. If they do
then they need to be adjusted. There is a small set screw on each side of
the breaks. Either loosen or tighten the screw to adjust the position of the
break. If you aren't comfortable with this ask your bike shop or ask at
the track.
OK, the season is going and you've got your bike
all tuned up. If you haven't then please refer to the "Pre-Season
Check" article. One of the most important part of your bike is the
tires. They are also the part that are thought of the least when checking
the bike over. So here is some information that should be helpful.
Tire pressure:
Tire pressure is very important as it can
influence not only how the bike roles but how it handles on a track.
There really isn't a "correct" tire pressure as each racer
finds something that works for them, however here are some guidelines.
The higher the pressure, the better the bike will roll, however the bike
won't absorb the bumps as well. If the pressure is too low, the bike will
be harder to pedal and as you lean or go into a corner the tire can
"roll" on the rim, making it harder to control in a corner. Low
pressure will also make the tube more likely to be "pinched" between
the tire and rim, resulting in a puncture. For heaver riders, 150 pounds
or heaver, a tire pressure of between 35 psi and 70 psi is where the tire
should be. Most riders in this category will use between 50 and 60 psi.
For younger riders, especially if they run the "skinny" wheels,
the tire pressure should be between 60 psi and 90 psi. Tire pressure
should be checked every couple of races and in fact the "skinny"
tires should be checked before every race as they hold less air and even a
small loss of air can result in low tire pressure.
Tire tread:
Tire tread is very subjective and to be truthful
most tread patterns work. Large knobby tires will grip well if the dirt
is soft, which isn't encountered that often, but it takes more effort to pedal
the bike and the bike won't roll easy. A tire with little or no tread
will roll easier, but may not grip well. Younger riders can get away with
limited tread on most track surfaces as even the slightest amount will grip
well. For older riders, a "low profile" tread will be a good
choice. Tires by Supercross, Maxis, Intense, and Kenda offer a variety of
tread patterns and sizes to choose from.
Tire wear:
The rear tire will be the one to wear down after
use mainly because it's on the drive wheel. Also the break on all BMX
bikes stops the rear wheel so skidding is common. If the tread is visibly
worn, the tire could lose traction in a corner and should be replaced. Tires
are one of the least expensive part on a bike so don't skimp on the tires.
Tubes:
Tubes get holes, it's a fact. They are thin
and we are riding on dirt, which may contain sharp rocks, glass (hopefully not)
and thorns. Patch kits are available, however tubes don't cost much
(usually less then $10.00) and are easier and faster to replace then patch.
Always have at least two tubes on hand at races, even if you don't know how
to change them. It's not much fun not being able to race because of a
flat and you should be able to find someone at the track who can help you
change a tube if you don't know how, but you may not be able to find a tube.
Next time we will go over a discussion of gears.
Welcome to the first Bike Check installment and
because the season is almost here, this is what we will concentrate on.
Bikes are machines and like all machines they
need maintenance on a regular basis in order to function safely and to perform
at it's best. Prior to every race season a BMX bike should be throughly
gone over. Before this is done, however, the bike should be cleaned.
If you don't feel comfortable doing this then this can be taken care of
by your local bike shop. Regardless of who does the work, these are the
items that need to be looked after.
Wheels and tires.
This is the part of the bike that makes it
"roll" along the track. Anyway, the spokes on the wheels need
to be checked for tension and at the same time trued. The hubs and axles
need to be checked to make sure the wheels roll smoothly. If the bearings
are sealed then not much needs to be done, other then making sure they are
clean. If they are not sealed then the bearings should be cleaned and
greased. The tires should be checked and if there are any holes are
cracks they should be replaced. Also, if the tread is worn then they
should be replaced, unless you want to skid and fall. Finally the air
pressure needs to be checked and more air added if necessary. Air
pressure is a personal preference but it should be between 35 and 60 psi for
tires that are 1.5 inches or wider and between 60 and 100 psi for the 1 1/8 and
1 3/8 inch tires.
The drive train.
The drive train is what makes the bike go.
It includes the pedals, cranks (the pedals are attached to these), the
chain wheel / ring, the rear freewheel or cassette cog (located on the rear
wheel) and the chain. The pedals should be tight to the cranks and there
should not be any play in the crank arms where they attach to the bottom
bracket (where the cranks meet the bike frame). The chain wheel / rink
should be clean and the teeth should not be damaged. If they are, it
should be replaced. The rear freewheel or cassette cog should also be
clean and the teeth should not be damaged. If they are, they should be
replaced. Also, if your bike has a freewheel, it should not
"grind" or "skip" when you pedal the bike. If it
does, it should be replaced. In fact it's not a bad idea to replace the
freewheel or cog at the beginning of each season. The chain is simple,
replace it. They don't cost much and it does make the bike go.
The headset.
This allows the bike to turn. This should
allow the front of the bike to move easily, but not be loose. If the
headset is sealed, all you need to do is make sure it moves freely and isn't
loose. If it doesn't move freely then the assembly should be taken apart,
cleaned and greased. When you put the assembly back together, make sure
its snug and moves freely. If the headset isn't sealed, the bearings
should be cleaned and greased.
The rest of the bike.
Make sure all the bolts are clean, lubricated and
tightened.
Tips on lubrication.
For unsealed, moving parts, a thin layer of bike
grease should be used. Don't use too much as this can cause the parts to
not move freely. For other parts like the wheel hubs (the part that the
wheels spin around) and the chain, a spray on silicone lubricant works best.
One of the best products is Jig-A-Loo all purpose lubricant that can be
purchased at Canadian Tire. The reason this works better then chain oil
is that it doesn't attract dust and dirt, which can cause the moving parts to
not move easily and can actually wear out the parts. Just spray on the
lubricant and wipe off the excess.
If you are doing the work on your own, make sure
you know what your doing or ask someone who does to show you what to do.
If you are going to take it to a bike shop, list what you want done and
give it to the mechanic.
If you have any questions, send an
e-mail.
